DAVID DAVID

David Saunders’ latest geometric prints are just as distinctive as most ever-present status-label patterns, yet the work of the bespectacled Brit has more character than many labels five times its size. This London Fashion Week, he exhibited a collection with all the perkiness of a new pack of Tropical Crayola Markers and the total eccentricity of Iekeliene Stange.

David David’s latest looks use the structure of double-breasted navy trenches and second-skin high-waisted trousers, then throw off any notions of the bland with the shortest minis, the boldest boy shorts and the wildest plaid blouses. All this, and Saunders adds still more quirk with a custom print that lies somewhere between cubist art and the Eye Spy books many people had as kids.

The inspiring creativity isn’t all that surprising, since Chelsea College of Art grad Saunders has previously been hailed as the “poster boy for the London crossover between art and fashion.” But expected or not, fans like Alice Dellal, Santogold and Kanye West probably hope he keeps it up.

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words_Jill Hilbrenner

Holy Pantone, Henry. Like your color blocking much? The designer that made his name with acid-bright slogan tees and a predisposition to socializing with Agyness Deyn showed his paint swatch-inspired collection to mixed reviews at London Fashion Week.

Although fading-intensity green pagoda jackets and black-and-gray Margiela-esque coats might divide the style crowd, Henry Holland found appeal in simpler looks, such as a strapless black dress with striped tights. Still going with the swatch theme, the silhouette was less challenging than a fusion of harem pants and pegged trousers, and revealed less leg hair than the male model who stomped out in just an oversized pink button-up.

That aside, the appeal of House of Holland has always been that its designer is willing to do something kooky. It’s hard to say how many middle-agers have been baffled by the fuss over a shirt that says “Get Yer Freak On Giles Deacon” or a dress that covers little else besides MIA’s ready-to-pop fetus. Outfits that could help decide the color of a wall won’t have any clearer draw, but rest assured people will be clamoring for them come autumn.

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words_jill hilbrenner

If Kanye West really wants to shake his rapper creds in favor of designing, then he was wise to bring new girl Amber Rose and an abbreviated posse to watch how Peter Jensen put on a runway show. This London Fashion Week, the Danish designer showed a respectably cutesy collection of padded floral jackets, plaid blanket coats and folklore-style cardigans.

In the appropriately gritty Topshop venue, Jensen sent models like Bette Franke and Georgie Badel out in clothes that would be appropriate for a ‘70s cold-weather-climate dweller. The collection, inspired by his part-cabbie, part-fashionista Aunt Jytte from Greenland, had its strongest points in an oversized hounds tooth capelet and knee-high, white Nordic boots.

Kanye seemed to be paying more attention at Jensen than he reportedly did at some New York shows, so if his focus represents anything, Americans should expect to see these styles on their streets soon.